Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Look at my photos if you so choose...

http://picassaweb.google.com/anthonydamelio

Copy and paste this into the window or just click on the photo to the right of the Guggenheim. The easiest way to view them is in slideshow format. They cover my time here through this past trip, to Barcelona and the Pyrenees. Enjoy!

Monday, October 16, 2006

First Puente: Success

So, this one’s gonna be a long one, folks. This has been quite the “puente”—basically occurring when Spaniards have a day off on Thursday and just take the Friday too for fun.

We left for Barcelona Wednesday night, in a rental car, four of us: Nick, Mandy, Matteo, and me. Let me explain a little about what happened and how we remedied it. So, we go to the train station on Monday afternoon to buy overnight tickets to Barcelona on Wednesday, for a group of 11 people (Don’t ask me how it got that big). The women not-so-politely informed us that there were NO plazas—none, ninguna, nada. Plan B. The frustration set in, as this was such a great train—through the night, with a bed, arriving in the morning at 8, only for 50 euros. That’s a steal. So, now it’s either bus or car. I hate buses, so we searched about renting a car. This was a logical idea because we planned to come back in a car. Searched and searched, but most of the group elected to take the bus. I’m stubborn, and that ride to and from Santiago was TERRIBLE, so three other people and I planned the car ride. One problem was that we couldn’t leave until 7 pm because two of my friends didn’t get out of class till then. Go to the rental place, had to switch drivers because my friend’s license just ran out at his 25th birthday, and we were off. Stopped for dinner, and had a sudden realization about Spanish toll roads. 10.25 euros for a toll. We had gone maybe 2 hours. What the hell!? Well, we finally found some food, and kept going. Our plan, as suggested by my professor earlier that day because she informed me that the place I had selected to stay overnight was not reachable by a humanly hour, was to stay outside Zaragoza. We hit there around 11 pm, and as I had already known, they had their festival that weekend. Not just the puente, but their biggest party of the year as a city. So, after searching a few places for lodging, we got outta dodge and kept going. Next plan was to stop at Lleida, the next closest major city. In retrospect, we should’ve just searched in a town, but seeing as we didn’t know the area AT ALL, we opted for the city, We reached Lleida a little before 2, and started driving around. Searched a hotel and a few hostels, and either too expensive or not available. On our way back out of the city, at about 2:30, Mandy spotted a sign for a one-star hotel. I went in and inquired—19 bucks a person for a hotel, which is at least one step up from a hostel. Good, ours, to sleep.

Left the next morning at 9:30, after rousing the troops. Finally got to Barcelona proper at around 11 pm, but that doesn’t mean we actually got to the train station to drop off our car. Mind you, this is 45 euros later in tolls—completely ridiculous, for a 6-hour drive. I do have to say, though, that the roads were in impeccable condition and the scenery for the first few hours was amazing—it was a shame the sun went down so early. Yeah, so I figured there would be signs in Barcelona indicating the train station. We stopped at a gas station to get directions, and the attendant could NOT help us—very frustrating. Another problem in Spain is the signs. Lack of street signs, unclear road signs, both of which combine for a headache. We got to Barcelona, with no map, no clear road signs in the city, and no signs pointing toward the station. We had to rely on our friends, without whom we would still be lost, and a little wandering until we saw some helpful signs. Finally, we found it and had to deal with the rental car return people--always fun.

Found our way to the hostel, dropped off our things, and grabbed some food before meeting up with the other group. Went to the Cathedral not to be confused with la Sagrada Familia, where we went next. The whole day it was raining. At times, very hard, but usually just a steady rain that soaked everything. La Sagrada Familia, tho, was amazing. We arrived shortly after 6, as my tour book said it closed on the inside at 7, but when arriving we discovered it to actually be 6. But we sure did spend some time on the outside http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagrada_familia There are a LOT of old churches and cathedrals in Spain, as you can imagine, but this one is much different than any I've ever seen and I think will see during my time here. Designed by Gaudi, it was his life project, which is still not finished. They estimate the project to be completed in 50 years because it's only based on donations and ticket fees. Click the link if you haven't.

From there, we found some food and headed back to the hostel. The other part of the group, who had taken the bus over night, was QUITE tired, so we ended up just hanging out back at the hostel instead of going out. I did get to play a few games of euchre, which was awesome. I so love that card game, and since many of my friends on this trip are from Michigan or Illinois, they know how to play and some are addicted to it like I am. Bed time, relatively early for a holiday, at 2, to prepare for the next day's excursions.

Friday was a much more productive day, and we saw a LOT of things, in my opinion--so much so that my calves hurt at the end of the day. I'll list off some of the cooler stuff: Las Ramblas, a long street which is one of the hot spots, off of which are government buildings, the OLD basilica, some Gaudi works, and their Plaza Mayor, which was quite cool; the Parque de Guell, which is what Gaudi designed for a nobleman back in the day--it's indescribable but filled with architecture and gardens; the INSIDE of La Sagrada Familia, which was the highlight of my trip to Barcelona; their Arc de Tromphe; Gaudi's disputably best work, an apartment building which still functions as such; and the fountain show, which was such an attraction and was like the Bellagio's in Vegas. La Sagrada Familia as a work of art and as a religious house, is amazing. I really lack the words to describe it, but it gives such a distinct interpretation and representation of the Bible and Biblical scenes--it really moves you to faith.

Late night at one of the clubs, and early morning to get outta dodge. We picked up a new rental car, now on Saturday morning, a different group of us: Kara, Jeff (driver), Nick, Mandy, and I. Kara and I, with the help of one of the CIDE professors, had planned a trip to go north to Figureres to see the Dali museum and then cut east into the Pyrenees, stay the night in a rural house, and see some of the attractions and do some outdoor stuff. Let me say that it was worth all the PAIN involved in this planning. Wow, just finding a house was immensely difficult; only by luck did this one place have openings, and boy was it worth it.

The Dali museum was very cool, very Dali. He built it before his death, and he's actually buried in it. Featuring many of his most famous works, tho not nearly all, it plays with your mind, as he wished. Dali was one crazy guy, but in some cases I could see what he was going for.

So, we left Figueres (the town in which Dali’s museum is situated) around 4:30, which was much too late to begin with. I had no idea we would spend that much time in the morning, as we left late, or around the town that afternoon, eating and such. So, we got on the open road. Basically, Kara and I knew we had two options for driving: head into the mountains and just plow straight west, or go back down to Barcelona and get on the autopista and cut off a bunch of time. Because we were feeling cheap, had nothing else to do, and wanted to see the country, we all decided to take the mountain roads. And let me tell you, they were mountain roads. Very windy roads, up and down hills, but with incredible vistas. Stopped a few times to take pictures, which of course will not be able to capture the beauty that lay before our eyes. Around 6:30, I did a little math and distance calculations, tried to figure out how far we had gone and in what time, and roughly concluded that if we remained on this road, we wouldn’t reach our lodging for the night until 3 am. Well, I brought this to the attention of the car when we had a chance to change routes south—get out of the mountains by going south and west and then cutting back up north—and we decided to try to get there by a reasonable hour. We didn’t end up getting there till a little after midnight, tho, with the new direction. We arrived in Jaca, the biggest town in the region, which lies to the south of Abay, the tiny town in which we were staying, and somehow managed to get up to Abay on a one-lane road. However, it took us some struggling to find this hotel, but the owner had to come out to get us. The hotel was amazing, I believe. I shouldn’t say hotel, because it was more of a house. Most of the lodging we had been considering consisted of old, but recently-rehabbed rural houses, all stone and wood. Beautiful structures. This place was no exception, as it retained its glorious roots but offered commodities like hot and high-pressured water and comfortable beds—and our room had a balcony. All this for less than 17 euros per person? Couldn’t beat it, honestly, especially after we spent 19 per night at a HOSTEL in Barcelona.

Wake up the next morning at 8, take in some of the vistas that morning, including the sunrise. It’s so wonderful to gaze out your window and stand on your balcony and view the sun rise over the Pyrenees, let me tell you. We set off, got some AMAZING breakfast at this place in Jaca, and went to see the two main sites of the city, the Citadel and the cathedral, which is one of the oldest in Spain. The Ciudadela, we deemed, was not worth the money or the pain—4 euros for a 40-minute guided tour for which we had neither the time nor the patience. We got out of Jaca and headed toward the Monastery of San Juan de la Pena, which is literally halfway up a mountain submerged into the side of the hill. What an awesome place; it took us a while to ascend the windy road up there, but it was so worth it. It’s interesting to imagine monks living up there hundreds of years ago.

From there, we set off east, with me planning to stop at a Canyon to have a hike. Much of this road followed a large river in the region, and at this one point a big lake opened up out of nowhere. Kara spotted cars down by the beach, so we figured we could head down there as well. Hell, we bought the extra insurance, why not!? We took out rental PT Cruiser off-road toward the beach and had lunch. Wow was that wonderful, an amazing little unexpected break. Continuing on, we finally got to the canyon, which was beautiful and funfunfun. We got to climb all over rocks and formations, all the things I didn't do as a "yute" (I hope you get the film reference). I was like the proverbial kid in a candy store, and the rest of the group loved it as well.

We got out of there, drove home, dropped the car off at the airport (still a pain this time--another lack of signs), and there ends the puente. What a wonderful one at that. Certainly we missed some of Barcelona in not spending the WHOLE weekend there, but think about what we would've missed had we done that? We saw Spain, and we're seeing Spain, not just in its large cities. This weekend we'll visit Guernica and some shore cities with the CIDE group, more Spanish culture. I realized in Barcelona why I really am enjoying NOT being in a large city here and why I made the correct choice in Bilbao--I don't want a metropolis, because that's not where Spanish culture lies. There isn't one Spanish culture, and that of the north is much different from that of the south, but I have the opportunity to attempt to understand these people outside the environment of a metropolis. Sure, I miss NYC, but I get a wonderful place in the meantime!

All the best--

AMDG,
Anthony

Sunday, October 08, 2006

French Basque Country and Loyola: Yes, THE Loyola

So, I'll start with Thursday. So I had heard from my host father, and also seen posters around town, about this German beer festival thing this weekend. Because Spain is really deficient on beer--no need, I guess, when there's an abundance of good wine--I had an urge for some good beer. So, we went to check it out. Indeed it was a German festival, complete with long tables and huge mugs of beer with awesome brauts, all to a German band playing festive German music interwoven with some Hispanic classics. The Spaniards were going nuts, dancing on tables, having a blast. The beer was good, I must add, as well.

Friday: day trip with the Program to St. Jean de Luz and Biarritz in France and Loyola back here in Spain. Set out early, again, at 8:15 am. First stop in St. Jean de Luz. It's a sleepy little fishing town in the offseason, right on the Bay, beautiful little place with a nice beach. The population evidently sextuples (six-times?) in the summer when all the tourists come, but it was nice just to walk around a little with not that many people around. Biarritz, however, was a bit cooler. Amazing coastline, with some very nice rocky juts into the sea on which we could climb. Bigger town, with supposedly one of the best chocolateries in France, or Europe, for that fact (according to my gourmand of a teacher). Very cool market too, in which I got to watch a fish monger slice up a tuna in front of my eyes. We discovered, though, how difficult it can be to get around in a foreign country in which you do not know the language. Every time I went to ask for something in a store, Spanish came out. In some of the bigger stores, they realized we were speaking English/Spanish and tried to speak one of those. From there, we were already a little hungry and were forced to get back on the bus and drive to lunch.

CIDE, you owe us an apology. Every time we have a group meal, the food sucks. Straight up. Last time in the hotel in Madrid, the terrible lasagne in Toledo, and now horrible paella. How do you mess that up?! We were all ravenous and yet we still could tell that the paella had NO taste. It wasn't mal-flavored, but rather lacked anything whatsoever. I felt bad for the people for whom this was their first paella experience. Oh well, at least they couldn't screw up the second course of chicken. We all discussed, tho, how they should just give us the 10 euros and let us find food somewhere. Oh well, at least we get to eat together in a big group.

Then we went to Loyola. Let me tell you that this was one of my explicit goals before I came to Basque Country, to visit the birthplace of St. Ignatius. Sort of a pilgrimage to me, I guess, after all his legacy has done for my life. I can't really describe how it made me feel, to be in that place, to look out a window of his house and gaze at the same scenery he would've seen at my age. It was kinda sad, tho, not going with other people with backgrounds of Jesuit education. I had one friend who could appreciate some of it, as I believe he has a rich Catholic background. I was ready and excited for this, while others in my group just wanted to go home.

Not much excitement for the remainder of the weekend. Day trips are tiring tho, so we mainly stayed in on Friday. My friend, Kara, and I were going to go hiking on Saturday, but the weather was bad when we awoke so we scrapped those plans. Saturday night was fun, tho, some more excitement in Bilbao.

Today I bought airfare to Paris for a weekend in November. I purchased my tickets to Dublin, as well, this weekend. Oh yeah, to Andalucia, to see Sevilla, Cordoba, and Granada. I might try to fit in London, if I have any energy. So, I'm traveling in Europe...

All the best--

AMDG,
Tony

Monday, October 02, 2006

Julia Comes to Spain

I'll try to keep this one shorter so I can finish it tonight as opposed to a millenium from now. Sorry about last week's post, as it took me so long to finish my Madrid entry. I didn't hit this past weekend quite as hard, so I'm functioning rather well this Monday.

Julia arrived on Thursday, and my two friends, Yiota and Kara, accompanied me to the airport to find her. I had a feeling that with her Spanish ability she would be taken advantage of by a taxi, so I just told her to meet me outside baggage. It's really poignant here in Europe how much nowadays we rely on cellphones and how much our modern functioning would be inhibited without them. Uh oh. The reliance on technology is taking over our lives (oh wait, it already has!). Anyway, we found her rather easily, with my friends spotting her before I could. Got home, introduced her to my eclectic family here, and then took her on a little tour of the neighborhood and a little Bilbao history, all before partaking in some AWESOME pintxos (pinchos in Spanish, tapas in other regions of Spain http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapas). My host father was correct that this bar a block away from our house has some of the best pintxos in the area. Anyway, came back for a little dinner here at the house, then out to some Erasmus festivities. The first bar, in fact an Irish one, for which I got a free pint card earlier that day at school, allowed me to enjoy some good beer, for once, in Spain. The Guinness was surprisingly good, and the bartender even used the double pour method. My friends showed up, and then we went to the main Erasmus gathering. This was the first official one of the semester, and I must say I haven't experienced a crowded bar like that since Fordham. Wow, was it hot, smoky, and tough to move around. However, it was a lot of fun. Basically, a big club in which we had to dance on the benches on the side just to get some room to move. That made for some fun times, though, and interesting encounters with people. I must say, though, that Spanish guys do not know how to approach a woman in a club. I don't know if this is common, but from what I have seen thus far and from what all my girl friends have told me, they can be rather creepy.

Anyway, Friday morning I had a tour with my professors of Casco Viejo (the old port). It was a requirement for my Basque Culture class, but as I figured it would be interesting, I asked earlier in the week (just out of respect) if it would be all right if my sister came along. "Oh, we'll think about it and get back to you," they responded. Okay, I guess that's normal procedure. They come back and say no, because you can't have anyone from outside the program. Wtf, mate? She's my sister, I said, and can't you make an exception? They replied no, and needless to say I was a bit angry--my host mom shared in that too. Anyway, I think Julia just caught up on some sleep during my absence. Later that afternoon, we went out and toured the town. Went back to Casco Viejo, showed her some cool stuff, including the churches of that section, and ascended the big hill to Begona, on which sits an amazing church as well as a view of the city.

Friday night. We hung out with some of my friends until some others were ready to go out, and we were all led by a friend of a friend of mine who lives in Bilbao--actually a girl I met the other night with a group of people. Awesome person, who knew where to take us, and we had a lot of fun. Oh, trying to use bathrooms in a city is such a fun--or terrible--experience. Walking around isn't quite like driving in suburbia, in which there are plenty of fast food joints and gas stations in which you can easily make a free pit stop. Anyway, Friday night was a fun one--more dancing, not too much drinking. Not enough food tho, haha. Late night doesn't exist in Bilbao--kinda frustrating.

Saturday. To San Sebastian (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donostia). Beautiful beach, beautiful hills overlooking the city, beautiful casco viejo. Food is amazing, tho very expensive, which is a problem for the student traveler. Pintxos aren't gonna cut it for a meal after a day of walking, without breaking your wallet. I wished we had seen more of the city, but we were just takin it easy. Spent some time at the beach just walking, spent some time gazing off into the distance, and just chilled out. Some people in the group turned out to be more tired than expected, and when it started raining, we called it quits and headed back. I could feel my throat tickling from sickness in the afternoon, and I knew when I returned that if I went out, I would add a few more days to my malady.

Thus, Julia went out with my friend, Danielle, who's studying here with me and whom Julia knows from when she visited. They went out in a group of girls, and I hit the sack as soon as possible.

Sunday morning. Mass with my host mom. Interesting experience, to say the least. This is the second Sunday morning Mass I've attended here in Spain, and this one wasn't much longer than the last--only 40 minutes. Strange thing. My host mom took us on a tour of the church (she's very involved, evidently), meeting the priest and such.

Afterwards, there was a Basque open-air market set up between church and home, so Julia and I took a pass through that. Some delicacies from the region including cheese, meat, wine, fruits and vegetables, and other such products. Julia bought some good food to take back with her to Ireland (such products I'm guessing you can't find there...), and we headed home for lunch. Little siesta time, then out to a different vista over Bilbao. Damn I love it up there, just looking out over the city. It was a beautiful day, almost too sunny to take pictures, not too hot either. Then we went up north towards the beach, to hang out with Danielle a little and see another side of Bilbao, in its beaches.

That's that. Monday comes, another weekend gone.

This evening, I tried a university class, to see if I want to take on another one (I would probably have to drop one of my CIDE classes, which I don't want to do). Needless to say, I was a little nervous. The class is listed under Anthropology AND Religious Sciences, as it's called The History of Religions, I guess focusing from an interesting view? I went to the classroom (I couldn't find it at first) with a couple minutes to spare, and no one was there. After a few minutes of worrying and trying to locate the class on some fliers they had posted, I finally just asked, and was referred to the room behind me--257, not 253, as I was told by my advisor. So, there are 5 people in the class. They're all visibly older than me. Uh oh, what have I gotten myself into. They all know each other too. Cool. So I'm just chillin there, trying to listen to all of them talk at once (not quite that easy. Then, someone quickly turns to me and says something. Shit, I didn't understand what he said; I was forced to say the "I don't understand," and then quickly make up for that by assuring them I can speak Spanish. So, after their initial discovery that I was a foreigner, we had a nice conversation. It was kinda funny tho, as the professor never came, so we all left at 8:30 (it was supposed to begin at 8). They were very nice to me, and it was easier to understand them after they started talking to me. It's still tough to comprehend people who don't open their mouths while speaking. Oh well, I'll get used to it.

Life is still good. Bilbao is a great city, and I'm very glad I chose this program and this place. I'm loving my classes, doing fairly well (I've had some papers/tests in a few classes, but we have yet to see how difficult they will continue to grade...), and having a great time. Family is good, friends are better, and my experience continues. Hasta pronto todos--

Paz y amor--

AMDG,
Anthony